Eye-Catching Trends to Update Your Makeup Look

Fresh eyes
Press, rather than swipe, on eye shadow to maximise the colour. Build to your preferred intensity with a multi-shade palette. Elka collective knit, $189.

If eyes are the windows to your soul, then make-up is the soft furnishings: the drapes, the ties, the dressings. You likely don’t have the same curtains you did a decade or two ago, and nor should you be sticking with the same make-up routine. “Right now, there is a movement towards large, oval-shaped eye colour rather than anything too contoured and softly blended,” says make-up artist Max May. “What’s exciting about make-up at the moment is the emphasis on bold shapes. Even if you’re not using a strong colour – and instead prefer something like a sheer glitter shadow or an eye gloss – you can still make a real statement with that oval shape.”

Shadow that stands out should be applied just like a strong eyeliner – draft it out, softly, first. Outline your oval shape with a pencil liner or shadow applied with a brush, to make sure the shape is flattering and, most importantly, even on both sides. Wet the brush before you dip it in the shadow if you want to pump up the intensity. 

You’ve got the shape, now what about the shade? “Anything in the aubergine, plum or wine family makes every eye colour pop. They can look intimidating on a make-up counter but, used in the right way, they are so flattering,” says make-up artist Victoria Martin.

May, whose celebrity clients are always on point for the red carpet, agrees: “Shades of red, pink, burgundy and orange are this season’s bronze and gold. They work on a broad spectrum of skin tones, make dark eyes look light and bright and make lighter eyes pop.”

If you’re not accustomed to colour, dabble in the trend with a coloured mascara or fine liquid liner. “Mascara in burgundy or plum is a great way to enhance any eye colour and put a twist on your everyday look,” says Martin. Start by applying a coat of mascara in your usual black shade to pump up the volume of your lashes, then adding the colour just to the tips. It’s a delicate nod to the trend without letting it take over your face.

Marine shades of blue and green are also dominating international runways. Go all out with a graphic blue shadow or try a softly-softly approach with a tricked-up style of fine liner. If you want to keep the look really simple, a “tightline” (liner applied to the waterline of your eyes) will make lashes look full rather than just volumised.

Mastered the shape and shade? The next step is choosing a formula. “Cream formulas changed the way I do make-up,” says make-up artist Rae Morris. “I’m all about creams; there’s no fallout, they give a hint of sheen, as opposed to a glittery shimmer, and once dry they’re totally waterproof. They’re also easy to blend, much easier than powder.”

Fresh eyes
Cream shadow: Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Truffle and Taupe, $47. Palette: Clinique AA Shadow Quad in Galaxy, $63. Shadow: MAC Eye Shadow in Atlantic Blue, $33. Liner: Revlon ColorStay Exactify Liquid Liner in Mulberry, $25.95. Eye duo: Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate Eye Kohl, $67. Highlighter: Giorgio Armani Armani Highlight, $68. Mascara: Sisley Volume Mascara, $80.

Stick or crayon versions of cream shadows are even easier. Draw them straight onto the eye and there’s no need for brushes – you can blend with your fingers as long as you move quickly and don’t give them time to dry. “Long-wearing cream shadow is my favourite, because it gives you flexibility,” says Martin. “You can apply it opaque in a graphic shape, blend it out to create a smoky eye and use it as a base for any other eye make-up or even as an eyeliner.”

May suggests finding sheer cream colours that have just a touch of sheen – like those in creamy highlighters – so they can do double duty. “I love that you can apply them with your fingers and on your cheekbones, too. Multi-use is a winner for an ever-growing make-up kit,” he adds.

In this brave new world of eye colour, how you use the rest of your make-up is just as important as the choice of hue. “Use an eye-shadow primer or base and you’ll not only find it easier to blend your shadow, you’ll also prevent creasing and ensure the whole thing stays put,” says Martin.

Keep your fancy new eye colour polished to perfection by spending an extra 30 seconds or so on concealing. “I like creamy liquid concealers rather than anything in a disc or pot,” says May. “They tend to blend into the skin rather than sit on top of it. They’re air-light in texture, too, so blend more easily, and have this fab brightening quality, to erase bags with ease.” J

Bright Eyes

Fresh eyes
Rest & Repair: Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex, $105. Radiance: Jurlique Herbal Recovery Advanced Eye Serum, $60. Super Serum: Philosophy Time in a Bottle for Eyes, $79. On target: LancÔme Absolue Yeux Precious Cells Eye Concentrate, $220.

Using quality skincare products will give you a great canvas on which to apply your make-up. Use the right ones and you’ll need less make-up, which means your face will look fresher.

Eye serums are lighter but still effective versions of eye cream and they’re a good choice when wearing bold eye make-up because they won’t slip as much on the skin.

If you’re prone to puffiness, treat yourself to a massage. “Puffiness is just retained fluid and the best way to reduce it is through massage. Work from the inner eye, close to the nose, to the outer corner, using light pressure and a rolling motion with the ring finger,” says facialist Jocelyn Petroni. And ensure you’re applying the product to the right area. “Many women apply cream to the eyelids – it should be applied wherever there is bone beneath your finger, not above the eyeball. The skin in the eye region is one-third the thickness of the skin on the rest of the face, so the eye cream will penetrate where it’s needed,” she adds.

Photography by Eddie New. Styling Claudia Jukic, make-up Molly Warkentin at Company1, hair Joel Forman at Lion Artist management, model Laura Kluenter at priscillas.

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