4 Signs Your Suit isn’t Fitting Properly

Spring racing mens suits

A new suit is a significant investment, so it pays to take your time to pinpoint the most flattering cut and fit. Get it right from the outset, and your suit can easily transition from spring racing carnival to wedding guest to formal dinner, with a simple swap of your shirt and accessories.

A great suit will also go the distance. “You want to look as good at the end of a long day at the races as you did at the beginning, and a quality, well-fitting suit will achieve this,” notes Gary Davey, director at men’s suiting brand Anthony Squires.

Not sure where to start? We spoke to leading menswear and suiting experts, to uncover the common fit faux pas to avoid to help you find a perfectly fitting suit, every time.

1. It’s too tight

There’s no denying that men’s suits have been erring on the snug side for several seasons, but our experts agree that a too-tight jacket or pants is a look that’s best avoided. “Overly tight suits look cheap and uncomfortable, and don’t last as long with the added pressure on seams,” notes Davey.

David Jones menswear buyer Matt Wagner-Smith singles out the thigh area as one that shouldn’t be too tight, suggesting instead that you go up a size and have the bottom of the pants tapered in by a tailor.

2. The pants are too big

On the flipside, trousers that are too large can simply look sloppy. “Don’t get a suit that’s too big (and too long) just to get the comfort factor,” says Wagner-Smith. If you have a David Jones American Express Platinum card, our in-house tailoring service is completely complimentary

Spring racing mens suits

Paul Smith suit; Anthony Squires suit

3. The shoulders are too wide

Few garments have the ability to project a strong silhouette quite like a quality suit jacket – and that all begins with the shoulder. “We always fit the jacket first and start with the shoulders. Given the shoulders are right, the rest can be altered,” says Davey.

How to get it right? “The shoulder should only extend a fraction beyond your natural shoulder – any longer and it will create a sagging effect,” says Chris Vogelpoel, menswear design manager at Country Road.

Spring racing mens suits

Country Road blazer; Saba jacket

4. It’s out of balance

The final step to perfecting your fit is to ensure that the jacket and trousers are in proportion when worn together. “If you’re a generous build but have slender legs, there’s no reason to make them look slimmer,” says David Jones stylist Nathan Truong. Choosing a pant style with a little more room in the legs will help to balance out a broad shoulder.

The right silhouette will also taper in slightly at the waist, without pulling at the shoulders. As Wagner-Smith advises, “You need to be able to do up the single top button, to look extra sharp.”

Spring racing mens suits

Ted Baker jacket and trousers

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